I’m sure you’ve all seen a lot of my toilet lately.
When I was a kid, these were the curtains at our house.
Actually, do you! No, I did not enjoy them. I’m very sorry.
They struck me as archaic and quaint.
However, I have recently seen them used more frequently by interior designers, and my opinion has shifted.
DIY cafe curtains have the potential to look very cute, in my opinion.
Our bathroom’s window isn’t exactly a work of art. The combination of frosted glass and slider design throws me off.
I’ve attempted to “dress” this window before. I used tension rods to create a faux roman shade and hang it in the window a while back. Although I enjoyed it, I couldn’t help but long to experiment with a cafe curtain as well.
Okay, guys, let’s get started on this thing.
To account for the need for a 2 inch seam allowance, multiply the width of your window by 3. The valance’s width can be determined in this manner. The width of the fabric required for the bottom panels is equal to the width of the window plus four inches. A valance and flat panels can be made to fit your windows with these dimensions. Adding an extra 1/4 to 1/2 the width of the window results in a valance that is fuller and curtains that hang in gentle folds.
One-third of the window’s height is equal to the distance from the top of the upper curtain rod down. For the valance’s final length, add 6 inches.
To determine how long your curtains should be, lower rod, take a measurement from the top of the rod to three inches below the window sill. To calculate the size of your shorter curtain, add 6 inches.
Ensure that the design faces inward when you fold your fabric in half. Make sure the fabric pattern runs in the same direction as you cut out the valance and the bottom panels.
You can make your valance lie flat by pressing the two long sides inward by a quarter of an inch and ironing them. Next, fold the raw edges in another 3/4 inch and pin them, this time placing the straight pins perpendicular to the edge so you can pull them out as the needle of your sewing machine approaches them. Bring in the side seams and stitch them down.
The hem at the bottom should be pressed under by a quarter of an inch. Pin the seam after folding it up 1 3/4 inches. Hem it, please.
Press the valance with an iron after turning the top down about a quarter of an inch. Form a rod pocket by folding the top edge down 3 3/4 inches and pinning it. Edge stitching.
The valance should be slipped over the curtain’s top rod.
Make a crease along the side edges of each bottom panel, about a quarter of an inch in. Use the iron to seal the edges. Additional 3/4 inch of folding and pinning is required at the edges. Close the seams.
Press the panels with an iron while turning them up 1/4 inch from the bottom. Pin the hems up an additional 1 3/4 inches at the bottom. Mend the hems.
Press the tops of the lower curtain panels under by a quarter of an inch. Create a rod pocket by folding the top edges inward by another 3 3/4 inches and pinning them into place. Close the seams.
Put the panels on the lower rod and adjust the curtains so that the space between them is directly in the middle of the window.
Things You’ll Need
- The amount of fabric required to cover your window(s) will be determined by the size of those openings. I made use of this stunningly elegant white linen.
- Adhesive tape for fabrics (in lieu of a sewing machine).
- Automatic Sewing Machine
- These clip rings are fantastic.
- The tension rod is on my list of things to do. I recommend matching the color of the rod to the color of the clip rings.