The thought of blocking my crochet creations has always been a roadblock in my mind. For a long time, anytime a knitting pattern required blocking, I would simply say, “lalalala,” and move on to the next row.
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So I gave it a go… And the pay wasn’t quite as good as I’d hoped.
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How, why, and when to block your crochet creations are discussed in this post.
In this essay, I will summarize the information I have gathered about blocking techniques from many sources, such as the internet, books, classes, and videos found on youtube, as well as my own personal experience with the practice.
I hope to reassure you as well, that it’s not as scary as it may first appear. Also, my standard caveat applies here: I’ve found that there is often more than one right way to do something when it comes to crochet.
If learning by video is more your thing, my friend and crochet mentor Joanne Scrace from the Crochet Project has a video-based coursed on blocking. I have not taken it personally but I trust her knowledge.
What is blocking?
My crochet tutor, Joanne Scrace, from the Crochet Project, offers a video lesson on blocking if you prefer to learn from a screen. Although I didn’t take it personally, I do respect her expertise.
It is a very effective way to even out tension and, especially for open work, to really show off the pattern.
It is a highly effective approach to even out tension and, especially for open work, to really show off the pattern.
As a tension-balancing technique, it’s hard to beat, and it truly lets the pattern shine in open work.
Fabric drape can also be enhanced during the blocking process.
I guess it could be compared to icing a cake. Without icing the cake will still taste good and fill you up (as an unblocked sweater will still keep you covered up and warm) but a decorated cake will look a lot more appetising than an unfinished one!
It’s kind of like decorating a cake, I think. In the same way that an unblocked sweater will still keep you warm, a cake without frosting will still fill you up and taste delicious, but a decorated cake will appear far more appetizing than an unfinished one.
Should I block every crochet project?
Though purists might insist otherwise, I don’t see it as absolutely crucial in every single project. It really depends on what it is and what it’s going to be used for.
Blocking isn’t necessary for projects like amigurumi, but it’s debatable whether or not it’s necessary for garments like accessories and homewares. Regardless of the fiber or stitch pattern, I usually block every finished item.
The stitches in a beanie, for instance, will expand and form to the head while the wearer wears it. Life is too short to waste time on a hat that doesn’t fit right or has a complicated stitch design, in my opinion.
Crochet projects that may benefit from blocking:
- To that which has lace stitching
- Fillet crochet and other open work items
- Garments
- Wraparound Scarves
- Blanket squares (annoying but worthwhile!)
- Blankets, Completed (to get the shape right)
This is by no means an exhaustive list, but hopefully it provides some inspiration for things you may find more pleasing after blocking.
Should you block swatches?
If you’ve read any of my other postings on gauge, you know that I recommend producing a swatch before proceeding with the rest of your project.
Be as careful with a sample as you would with the final product. If you want to wash and block the final product, it stands to reason that you should do the same with the swatch.
You may also test the fabric’s durability by seeing how it holds up after being washed and blocked. Shrinkage of a 5-inch swatch is preferable than that of a 30-hour sweater.
If you want to know how to properly wash your cloth, look for the tag on the ball.
If blocking is a crucial step in the construction process, the gauge statement should specify whether it refers to the blocked or unblocked stitch pattern.
If you’re working a lacy pattern and the gauge doesn’t account for blocking, it’s probably a good idea to get in touch with the designer. However, certain designers may want more blocking than others, so I always provide the gauge unblocked.
Affiliate links have been included in this post. In other words, if you use one of my product links and end up buying the item, I’ll get a tiny commission on the sale at no extra cost to you. Here is where I disclose all of my affiliate relationships. It’s true that I do make money off of some Amazon purchases thanks to my Associate status.
Should I block my project before I sew in the ends?
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It depends on the project, but generally speaking, blocking before sewing in ends results in a neater final product.
Blocking your work after you’ve finished sewing in ends might be difficult because of the resistance created by the finished seams. Once you’ve blocked your work and are ready to sew in your ends, you’ll be using the correct tension.
How to block your crochet project
The process of blocking a crochet project is wetting the cloth, stretching it into the desired form while pinning it in place, and then letting it dry.
If you don’t want orange marks on your work, make sure to use rust-proof pins whenever you block.
There are several options for blocking, including the T-Pins I prefer (they are sharp, so exercise caution! ), knit blockers I have yet to try but have on my wish list, blocking wires, and even thread. This will be discussed in greater detail later.
Let’s start with a review of the many methods of wetting fabrics and when you should utilize each one.
Soak blocking
Soak blocking is a type of wet blocking in which the entire project is immersed in cold or room temperature water, as the name suggests. In order for the fibers to completely absorb the water, you need let the fabric sit for around 30 minutes.
Wools (typically in conjunction with a wool wash), cottons, bamboo, and other superwash animal fibers are the most common materials for soak blocking.
After soaking for the recommended amount of time, gently squeeze out the excess water and put the fabric flat on a towel. To remove most of the water, roll the fabric up in the towel and gently press it.
It’s not good to wring out your item or scrunch it up because doing so can cause the cloth to fray or felt.
After the water is removed, the blocking process can begin (i.e. the pinning out).
Keep in mind that I have found that acrylic yarn does not respond well to soak blocking. Because plastic fibers do not absorb water, this effort seems somewhat futile.
The Crochet Circle Podcast has a fantastic video of my buddy Fay from Fay DH designs wet blocking shawls. View it here.
Spritz Blocking
Wet blocking can also be done by spritzing. Incorporating moisture into fabric is sped up, which is useful for goods that simply need a light block.
Clean water should be sprayed over the crochet, and allowed to soak through to the reverse side of the fabric, using a spray bottle. Use a towel for this.
The fabric will be somewhat damp, not drenched, and ready to be pinned.
Steam Blocking
Dry blocking, or heat blocking, is another name for this phenomenon. In this technique, you will first pin out your crochet creation to the desired dimensions and size, and then steam the fabric to relax it.
Alternatively, steam can be used to introduce a trace quantity of moisture into the fabric. The added element of heat can be used to create shape and additional drape on your fabric. When dealing with steam equipment, be sure to observe all applicable safety procedures and follow any recommendations made by the appliance’s manufacturer.
Alternatively, steam can be used to introduce a trace quantity of moisture into the fabric. The added element of heat can be used to create shape and additional drape on your fabric. When dealing with steam equipment, be sure to observe all applicable safety procedures and follow any recommendations made by the appliance’s manufacturer.
Another option for adding a little moisture to your cloth is steam. The added element of heat can be used to create shape and additional drape on your cloth. When using a steam appliance, be sure to observe all safety precautions and follow the manufacturer’s instructions.
If you only need to add a little bit of moisture to your cloth, steam is an option. By applying heat, you can give your fabric body and improve its drape. When working with steam appliances, it is imperative that you take all precaution and strictly adhere to the instructions provided by the manufacturer.
The same holds true for any other kind of sensitive fiber. Keep away from the steam or heat.
Although steam blocking just involves dampening the fabric, it should be left pinned out until dry to ensure the desired form is maintained.
How to pin out crochet or knit fabric for blocking
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Whether you are using a wet or dry blocking method, you will need to stretch and shape your project and secure it in place, most commonly by using pins.
Xem thêm : How Many Granny Squares To Make A Blanket? All Questions Answered!
Whether you are using a wet or dry blocking method, you will need to stretch and shape your project and secure it in place, most commonly by using pins.
Using Pins and a blocking board
Whether you are using a wet or dry blocking method, you will need to stretch and shape your product and secure it in place, most typically by using pins.
Stretching and shaping your item and securing it in place, usually with pins, is required whether you want to block it wet or dry.
Work outward from the center of your project, stretching the fabric with your fingertips until you achieve the desired tension.
Although it may seem obvious, do not start by pinning in the corners. Stretch the fabric out to the corners while you pin it in the center.
Knit pro T-pins, which are seen in the photos, are particularly sharp (so use caution), strong, and user-friendly; nevertheless, any rust-proof dressmakers pins will do the trick.
Once you have the pins in the centre of the sides, continue to evenly stretch the fabric, then you can add the pins in the corners.
Stretch the cloth equally between the pins placed in the middle of each side, and then add pins to the four corners.
This eliminates the annoying peaks and valleys that can form when using pins.
The first step is to attach a wire to both ends of your creation. Then, depending on the form, you can either pin the wires out flat to shape or suspend the object from one of the wires.
Depending on the load being supported, blocking wires can be found in a variety of diameters and gauges.
If you have an item with a curve in, then the thinner wires will bend to accommodate this. These may come in handy for those beautiful crescent shawls!
Blocking Peg Boards
If you have an item with a curve in, then the thinner wires will bend to accommodate this. These may come in handy for those beautiful crescent shawls!
In order to accommodate a curved object, you can use thinner wires. These could be useful for preserving your lovely crescent shawls.
For instance, if you’re blocking a blanket made of granny squares, you can use the pins to establish the square size, and then loop the corners (and perhaps one or more places along the sides) over the pegs to ensure that all of your squares are the same size.
The pegs on these boards are typically very lengthy, allowing you to simultaneously block off several squares. But, the ones in the middle might not dry if you try to test too many at once!
Fibre content and blocking
Even though I’ve mentioned the optimum approach for various fibers throughout the instructions, I’d like to elaborate on this for a second.
Here’s a quick rundown of how to block the most popular fiber types, bearing in mind that different fibers have varying responses to various blocking techniques. This is just a rule of thumb and there may be exceptions, depending on how the fibre is spun for example. It is less easy to generalise with blends as this will depend on how the fibres are mixed.
- Here’s a quick rundown of how to block the most popular fiber types, bearing in mind that different fibers have varying responses to various blocking techniques. This is just a rule of thumb and there may be exceptions, depending on how the fibre is spun for example. It is less easy to generalise with blends as this will depend on how the fibres are mixed.
- Here’s a quick rundown on how to block the most common fiber types and their corresponding responses. It’s important to keep in mind that this is simply a general rule of thumb and that there could be variations in the details, such as how the fiber is spun. Blends are more difficult to generalize about because the results vary depending on the specific fiber combination.
- Acrylic (in most forms) can be blocked with steam, but if it is exposed to direct heat it can ‘break’. This can be a great way to soften up a blanket and increase drape. However, there is no turning back once you try it, so tread carefully. Practice on a swatch!
Is blocking permanent?
Acrylic (in most forms) can be blocked with steam, but if it is exposed to direct heat it can ‘break’. This can be a great way to soften up a blanket and increase drape. However, there is no turning back once you try it, so tread carefully. Practice on a swatch!
That settles the matter. Rather than adding to your confusion, I hope this has given you a basic understanding of how blocking works.
If you’re not sure, give it a swatch test.
If you decide to give blocking a try, please let me know how it goes. I now know that the extra work (granted, it can be a palava) is well worth it to achieve a more polished end result.
To all the blockers out there, good luck!
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