Home gardeners love and hate vinca, more commonly referred to as periwinkle, for the same reason: it swiftly spreads across a large area. Certain states have declared it invasive, and some have even outlawed it, while in others, it is seen as a benign player who fills in bare regions with color and cheer while staying within predetermined boundaries.
Vinca (Vinca minor; USDA zones 4 through 9) can pose a threat to native species, so it’s important to know your area’s rules and study about the threats that vinca poses to native plants before deciding whether to cultivate vinca in your own yard. Please continue reading if you do so.
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Periwinkle Propagation via Cuttings
The most important thing to know about cutting vinca is that you’ll be done in a jiffy. For starters, you’ll need a thick mat of vines and a solid bed of vinca. An essential part of the process is finding a non-flowering horizontal stem with leaf nodes that can establish roots when propagating periwinkle from cuttings. According to Krostrade, if the stem is straight with a flower attached, it will not form a root system.
The University of Minnesota Extension suggests removing 4 to 6 inches of the top. Remove the lowest few leaves, then submerge the cutting in a glass of water deep enough to cover the region where the leaves were removed. With any luck, roots will appear within a few days to a couple of weeks. Sow the new cutting right into your garden bed at that point.
You can also root the cutting by placing it in a pot of perlite or sphagnum peat. Using a rooting hormone will increase your success rate. Gently plucking on the cuttings after two to four weeks will reveal whether or not they have rooted. They have roots if you encounter resistance. Four weeks after they have rooted, put your new plants in the garden.
Periwinkle Propagation via Nature
The underground rhizomes of periwinkle, as well as its “adventitious roots,” which are roots that develop on non-root material, are how periwinkle spreads naturally. Root nodes on the plant’s stems penetrate the earth wherever they find a spot. Thus, if you plant a few plugs of periwinkle and don’t look twice, you’ll soon have a whole mat.
Invasive Guidelines for Vinca
As it grows, periwinkle spreads via underground rhizomes and what are known as “adventitious roots,” or roots that sprout on non-root material in the botanical world. This plant generates stems with root nodes that sink into the soil wherever they can find a spot. Consequently, you’ll have an entire mat in little time at all if you simply plant a few periwinkle plugs.
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In many areas of the United States, vinca has invaded natural areas to overtake native vegetation. It thrives in shady sites, so it naturally gravitates toward the forest canopy, where it quickly displaces native herbaceous and woody plants, reports the Invasive Plant Atlas. If vinca has been designated as invasive in your area, don’t plant any of it.
How To Propagate Vinca From Cuttings: Comprehensive Guide
Vinca has encroached in natural regions in various parts of the United States, displacing native plants. It thrives in shady areas, so it naturally gravitates toward the forest canopy, where it quickly displacing native herbaceous and woody plants, according to the Invasive Plant Atlas of North America.. If vinca has been designated as invasive in your area, don’t plant any of it.
Cutting
Over the years, vinca has invaded and encroached on natural regions in many parts of the United States, taking over and killing native plants. It thrives in shaded areas, so it naturally gravitates toward the forest canopy, where it quickly displaces native herbaceous and woody plants, according to the Invasive Plant Atlas of North America. Don’t plant vinca in areas where it has been declared invasive.
The best parent plant to use is one that is actively developing and not displaying any indications of stress. Vinca cuttings can be collected in the spring or early summer, but avoid doing so when the weather is hot. From May through July or as soon as the softwoods have emerged, experienced gardeners advocate cutting down the trees.
In addition, because they root more quickly, secondary cuttings taken from the stem’s lower end are preferable than terminal cuttings taken from the tip. To acquire a 4-inch cutting, the branch should have a variety of leaves but no blossoms, therefore use sterilized and sharp shears. So that it can be rooted, remove all leaves from its bottom third.
Preparation of growing medium
Rooting your cuttings depends on the germination media, which should be a mix of coarse perlite and finely ground Sphagnum Peat Moss (Peat Moss). Make sure the medium is moist to assist roots, as you would when growing other plants from cuttings. If you live in zones 10 to 11, you can begin planting as soon as you’ve prepared the soil.
Planting
Remember to remove any leaves from the lower half of the stem before planting the cuttings. Only half of the leaves at the very tip should be left. To encourage roots, coat the severed end of the cutting with rooting hormone once it is ready.
Use a separate container for dipping the cuttings in rooting hormone to ensure proper cleanliness. Insert one cutting per pot so that the leaves’ lowest set is above ground level. The stem should also be supported by the medium, so don’t forget to do that as well.
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The best place to start the cuttings is in a greenhouse with plenty of natural light. However, the plants should avoid direct sunlight at all costs. Cover them with clear plastic bags and monitor the medium’s moisture level every day to encourage roots.
Take special care to moisten the underside of your cuttings’ leaves twice a day. Tightly tug the base of the stem to see if it resists, which indicates the presence of roots. Open the plastic bags once they’ve rooted to allow for better air flow.
Transplanting
The cuttings can be transplanted into a larger container with potting soil once they have rooted for around four weeks. Put them in a sheltered spot with partial shade to harden them up before transplanting. Plants are best grown five feet apart in a bed with full light the next growing season after they are ready to be planted.
How To Grow Vinca
It’s possible to grow vinca successfully if you follow the instructions on the package carefully. In the greenhouse, you’ll have a better chance of getting strong parent plants for your cuttings. If you only intend to start vinca in the greenhouse, do it 12 weeks before the final expected frost date.
As long as they get plenty of sunlight, periwinkles will thrive in your garden. They don’t care about the type of soil, so you can put them as close as 12 inches apart. Once established, you can reduce the frequency of watering unless there is a severe drought, and mulching can help keep the soil moist.
For feeding, you can fertilize twice a season and use liquid food in midsummer to boost growth. Because vinca is more resistant to diseases and pests than most other flowering plants, you may rest easy knowing your garden is protected.
Conclusion
In order to grow periwinkles, you can use either seeds or cuttings. Cuttings of vinca can be used to propagate evergreen ground coverings. Periwinkle clones are propagated using a four-step process that includes cutting or collecting, preparation of growing material, planting, and transplantation.
It’s important to note that starting the propagation in a greenhouse or with the parent plants will provide you with extra advantages. Your cuttings will come from plants that thrive in a constant and perfect indoor environment. To assist them root fast and be ready for transplant, cuttings should be started indoors.
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